郡山宿(Kooriyama inn town): for whatever reason, it’s surrounded by a bunch of ancient tombs
Kooriyama inn town is located in Ibaraki city of Osaka prefecture, not to be confused with IBARAKI PREFECTURE in east of Tokyo! On top of it, there are several “Kooriyama” throughout Japan, and this is one of the least known ones.
I circled red on ancient tombs. At least there are 4 ancient tombs, probably built in 4-6th centuries. At least one of them belongs to the imperial family.,Apparently there are some more ancient tombs on this map that did not come up on this scale of the map.
Back on the track. Even before entering the inn town, you see old houses on the route. This is a fun part of Saigoku Kaido route.
Here are old road signs to show the directions. There is a tall one at the center left, and two short ones under the picture of a child with yellow hat.
The building of honjin inn is not open to public, according to Ibaraki city website.
Although today’s Kooriyama inn town itself looks indeed boring like other modern towns in Japan, it does still have old houses that indicate what the inn town used to be.
The big house on the left is apparently cafe. I would love to swing by for a cup of coffee here.
When I researched Kooriyama inn town, other than preserved Honjin inn, all I found were ancient tombs, and the former residence of Yasunari Kawabata, known for his novel “The Dancing Girl of Izu”.
Are there anything else we can find? Let’s get on the trail!
First, about 1.5km from Kooriyama inn town Honjin, there is a monument of 1571 battle of Shiraigawara. This was a historical battle of Murashige Araki, Kiyohide Nakagawa vs Koremasa Wada and Shigetomo Ibaraki, which was recorded in the First European Descriptions of Japan(1585). The monument is right behind the fence at the center of the picture, So you cannot see it on this picture, unfortunately.
The yellow circle is the monument of the former residence of Yasunari Kawabata(1899-1972) where he was born and spent his life until he graduated from the middle school.
Today, only the monument stands. I noticed that so far, on Saigoku Kaido route, the road is paved with either concrete blocks or light color stones to make it easier for the travelers to find the route.
In conclusion, there aren’t many excitements here. But when you expand the research to the surrounding are of Kooriyama inn town, there seems to be a lot to explore.
Osaka monorail Toyokawa station is the closest to the inn town. I would recommend to do the research about ancient tombs along with Kooriyama in town visit.
Btw I forgot to mention that there is a museum dedicated to Yasunari Kawabata in this city.
Reference:
Kiyohide Nakagawa. Wikipedia. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nakagawa_Kiyohide (Accessed in 4/15/2025)
Profile of Yasunari Kawabata. Ibaraki City. https://www.city.ibaraki.osaka.jp/kikou/shimin/bunka/menu/kawabata/bungakuknnnituite/profilekawabata.html (Accessed in 4/15/2025)
Saigoku Kaido guide map. Rekishi Kaido Promotional Council. (The original title: 西国街道みちしるべ 歴史街道推進協議会) https://www.rekishikaido.gr.jp/kaido/saigoku/ (Accessed in 4/15/2025)
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