尾道宿(Onomichi inn town) part 1: a mid-1900s nostalgia

Today’s Onomichi is a hard place to find what used to be of a San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido inn town, along the route itself. However, Onomichi has become an internationally-known place for travelers to visit. 
Look at the overview map. Onomichi is long. 
According to some of bloggers and Google map trail, pre-modern San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido passes by a hill, with old castle ruins, Matsuoyana castle ruins. Then the routes comes down straight south, until it hits JR San’yo line, then take almost 90-degree turn to downtown Onomichi, assuming this is the beginning of the inn town. I would be delightful to see old maps to find out where the inn town begins. 
The very first attraction on east side of Onomichi inn town is 
Soraiken Garden with traditional Japanese tea room, founded in Edo period. 
This shrine gate is a part of Kubo Hachiman shrine, established in the 9th century. When you see the map, the actual shrine building is beyond JR San’yodo line railway track. You will see this kind of structure in other religious facilities in Onomichi. 
The former inn town street is full of mid-20 century houses and buildings. 
 Normally, this structural change in street is for defense from enemy possibly coming from the west to Edo. I would love to see old maps if this is the case. 











The arcade street is one of highlights in Onomichi, and is on San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido highway. 
Here is one of remnants from the time of Onomichi inn town: an Edo-style warehouse. 
Although it’s difficult to read what is written on the sign I circled with blue, this is where honjin inn used to be. 
On the right, there is a small square with the map of downtown. 
This path goes to Senkoji temple and the Cat’s Ally. Senkoji temple is an iconic temple in Onomichi on Mt.Daiho, founded in 806. There is a ropeway to the peak of the mountain. 
This part of arcade street goes to the seaside. 
On the next article, we will continue exploring the rest of Onomichi inn town, and will post some of pictures from our trip to Onomichi in last March. 

JR Onomichi station is a bit far from the east edge of Onomichi inn town. However, walk from JR station to the east edge of inn town is actually fun. 



References: 

Japan Heritage Onomichi City Cultural Property 12. Soraiken Garden. Onomichi City Historical Culture City Development Promotion Council. https://nihonisan-onomichi.jp/en/bunkazai12_souraiken-garden/ (Accessed in 7/16/2025)

Kubo Hachiman Shrine. Dive! Hiroshima. Hiroshima Tourism Association/Hiroshima Prefecture/Hiroshima City. https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/explore/1521/ (Accessed in 7/19/2025)

Senkoji Temple. Dive! Hiroshima. Hiroshima Tourism Association/Hiroshima Prefecture/Hiroshima City. https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/explore/1503/ (Accessed in 7/19/2025)

















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