四日市宿(Yokkaichi inn town) aka 西条(Saijo): the Sake capital

四日市宿(Yokkaichi inn town) should not be confused with Yokkaichi city in Mie prefecture. Yokkaichi means “the fourth-day market”, literally there used to be a market in the fourth day of the month. However, for many, this town has been known as 西条(Saijo). Saijo has the nickname as “the Sake capital”. In fact, Saijo is referred to as one of three great places of sake brewing, along with Nada(Kobe) and Fushimi(Kyoto). 

A local magazine posted a map of Yokkaichi inn town recently, which made me easier to spot the beginning and the end of the inn town. So let’s find out! 


The inn town begins with the small brook called Furukawa river. It will be more clear on the next picture. 
Furukawa runs from north to south here. According to Google map, some parts of the river are covered with concrete. In other parts, it is very hard to find out if it’s a river or a gutter. But this is officially the beginning of the inn town. 
On the street view, both sides of the buildings are of Kamoizumi brewery, one of the most famous sake breweries in this area. 

After Kamozuru brewery, there are some old houses. Then the street becomes very modern, and even open. But be patient. Soon you will see a big section of the inn town. 
The building on the left is the tourist information center and the cafe. Back in old days, there used to be a theater beyond the gate of this building. 
Saijo has a lot more off the Main Street. I would recommend to explore around. 
Here is another sake brewery, Kirei brewery. 
Yokkaichi honjin inn was located a block off the Main Street. 
The Honjin was built by Hiroshima domain during Edo period. In Hiroshima domain, Honjin inns were called 御茶屋(Ochaya), which is roughly translated as the tea mansion. After Meiji period. It was used as the prefectural office, then a local sake brewery, Kamozuru brewery,  bought it. It is not open to public unfortunately. 
Another brewery, Hakubotan brewery, on the left. 
The sign shows this used to be Tsugitateba, equivalent to today’s train station. Of course, in those days, instead of trains, it was people and horses. 
The sign explains about the brewery building on the left called Enpou brewery building. Originally built in 1675, Enpou brewery building is one of the oldest sake brewery buildings in Japan. The one on the street view is not that old, but the building next to it(not on this street view) was built in 17-18th century. 
Apparently, Masugata square was located around here. When you go further west a little bit, the road narrows down to the old highway size. That could be the evidence. 
Western part of JR Saijo station along San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido still has some old houses, most likely built in late 1800s. The one on the left is a bar. 
There are a couple of more old house further down. 

Here is another brewery, San’yotsuru brewery. These building has a Japanese-style restaurant. 
The road is going uphill because there is Hannou river. It is a small river but this is the end of Yokkaichi inn town. 

JR Saijo station is located in a very convenient place to explore Yokkaichi inn town. Plus, there is a limousine bus to Hiroshima airport. Hongo inn town is technically closer to the airport but has far less frequent bus services. And limousine bus connects Saijo station with the airport every 90 minutes to 2 hours, which only take 25 minutes. 

Higashi Hiroshima city itself has a lot to see, and is a hub of education in western Japan as Hiroshima national university stands here. 

The next stop is 海田市宿(Kaitaichi inn town). We are finally entering Hiroshima city. 

References: 

Hakubotan Brewery Enpou brewery building. Higashi Hiroshima City.(The original title:白牡丹酒造延宝蔵 東広島市) https://www.city.higashihiroshima.lg.jp/soshiki/kyoikuiinkaishogaigakushu/3/11/bunkazai/town/saijo/sakaguragun/39656.html (Accessed in 8/10/2025. In Japanese) 

Introducing the townscape of Saijo-Yokkaichi, which has remained almost unchanged for 400 years in Higashihiroshima, and the changes in the roads connecting the north and south.(History of Higashihiroshima) The Weekly Pressnet Higashihiroshima Digital. The Pressnet Co.Ltd. (In Japanese: 東広島で400年間ほぼ変わっていない西条四日市の町並み紹介と南北を結ぶ道の移り変わり【東広島史】 ザ・ウィークリープレスネット東広島デジタル 株式会社プレスネット) https://www.higashihiroshima-digital.com/report/special-saijoyokkaichi-250801/ (Accessed in 8/10/2025. In Japanese)

Ochaya(Honjin) trace. Dive! Hiroshima. Hiroshima Tourism Association/Hiroshima Prefecture/Hiroshima City https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/explore/1204/ (Accessed in 8/10/2025)

Saijō, Hiroshima(Kamo). Wikipedia.com. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saij%C5%8D,_Hiroshima_(Kamo) (Accessed in 8/10/2025)

Tourism Guide. Higashi Hiroshima City official website(観光ガイド 東広島市) https://www.city.higashihiroshima.lg.jp/soshiki/sangyo/12/6_1/12488.html (Accessed in 8/10/2025)

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