Old Routes of Japan: Tracking down Japan off the beaten path from the eyes of a Japanese native

Some international cyclists might already know 長崎街道(Nagasaki Kaido highway) as the “Sugar Road”.  Nagasaki Kaido highway was a major route that connected northeast Kyushu with western parts of Kyushu island. It was considered as a Wakikaido, a sub-ranked highway. This just means that Tokugawa government did not directly involve in development and maintenance. This was true in very early stage of Edo period. Edo shogunate eventually took over management of major wakikaido routes. Nagasaki Kaido, along with San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido, were examples.  Historically, Nagasaki Kaido was one of the most important highways in Japan, because merchants used this route for international businesses in Nagasaki. In Edo period, especially during “Sakoku” national policy of isolation(1639-1854), Nagasaki was the only open port of international businesses and diplomacy with Dutch empire and Chinese dynasties.(Note that Nagasaki was not the only port of international businesses) Sugars were import...

Kanaya inn town, on the west riverside of Oi River, has the same role in Tokaido as Shimada inn town. But for most people, vintage steam engine ride of Oigawa Railways sounds more familiar.  I haven’t talked much about names of old countries of Japan, which is somewhat similar to prefecture system. But prior to 1868, these countries had more power, and Tokugawa central government was even more powerful.  And Kanaya was the country of 遠江(Totomi), and Shimada was the country of 駿河(Suruga).  Comparing to Shimada inn town Oigawa crossing ruins, Kanaya part does not appear to have much to see. Let’s find out.  West shore of port used to be around here. The sign shows there used to have the same facilities as east side of the river. For more details, check out my previous page.  On the left, according to Google reviews, there is a cafe of 110-year-old house. 110 years old means it was built in around 1915…might not have anything to do with old Tokaido time.  Akih...

Kuba inn town is located in Otake city, and the last inn town of San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido highway in Hiroshima prefecture section(technically).  This time, Otake city historical society(大竹市歴史研究会) has a great website including an old map of Kuba inn town. I am posting this link on the reference section.  Before entering Kuba inn town, there is a stone-paved road in Narukawa area. It was paved in early 1630s. This is one of places you can still see what old San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido used to look like. Note that according to Otake city, the trail after this paved road over the hill is closed.  Entering Kuba inn town.  Today JR San’yo line goes through the tunnel. The San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido route used to go over the tunnel.  Looking at the tunnel, which was built during Meiji era(late 1800s).  Before the tunnel was built, this section was very steep, and it was named as 馬ためし坂(Umatameshizaka: the slope of testing horses). As the name tells us, horses seem to have had...