Old Routes of Japan: Tracking down Japan off the beaten path from the eyes of a Japanese native

In this route if Hakone, Google map shows 3 Tokaido routes, which is confusing.  First, there are two National R-1s. R-1 bypass route goes further southeast down. And another R-1 comes down from Kowakudani, via Motohakone then joins again with old Tokaido route.  Second, it’s Kanagawa prefectural R-732 which goes parallel to old Tokaido route.  Then you see old Tokaido route aka 旧東海道(Kyu-Tokaido).  However, look at the next picture. There are two “Old Tokaido” routes.  I have not figured out how this happened. This is one of fun things to figure out by visiting Hakone and asking a local guide about.  Mountain part of Tokaido trail in Hakone is vastly untouched, or well-preserved. Cedar tree trail part(which I circled red), is definitely beautiful. There is no street view on this part, however, go online with “Tokaido Lake Ashi cedar tree” and you will find a lot of pictures and videos.  You eventually end up joining National R-1, then soon you are turn...

Hakone is one of the most popular tourist sites in Japan now. And it has been popular among Japanese for centuries for many reasons: hot springs, hiking trails, volcanic valley, great view of Mt.Fuji etc., but I will leave this part to my blog readers as you will find tons of info about Hakone.  Anyhow, let get on the trail!  The trail itself to Hakone inn town is one of the hardest on Tokaido route. Train only takes you up to Hakone Yumoto station by Hakone-Tozan railways. Hakone-Yumoto is a popular hot spring site. It’s a long uphill, and we pass by near Sounji temple, established in 1521 by Ujitsuna Hojo. Foliage season is gorgeous.  Tokaido goes through lots of onsen ryokans(inns with hot spring tub) and hotels. Right after passing by Oumiya ryokan, there is a path that goes downhill. This is the original Tokaido than continues to Hakone inn town. There is a small tub by the path. This place used to have 馬立場(Umatateba), which is a rest area for horses to drink water o...

Odawara is, by far, among inn towns between Nihonbashi and Odawara, the most popular place to visit. It’s the crossroads for Hakone and Atami. Plus, Odawara has a historically significant castle, known for the siege of Odawara in 1590 by lord Hideyoshi Toyotomi against Ujimasa Hojo. Seafood lovers should try its Kamaboko fish cake, fried fish and of course, raw fish.  One of the most popular convenience stores in Japan,  Lawson, is completely camouflaged as an Edo-style house.  There is a sign to show where Edogata-Mitsuke(Edo-side guard gate) used to be. But there seems to be two signs of Edogata-Mitsuke. And both point out slightly different places in the same area.  This one is probably the most accurate location of  Edogata-Mitsuke guard gate.  This one probably just show that there used to be Edogata-Mitsuke around this area. A small column with the light and the roof is the sign.  One of the first signs to tell us about old-day Odawara inn town i...

 Shonan beach is a well-known surfing beach today.  Oiso Tokaido inn town is right in front of Shonan beach. Hiratsuka is also close from the beach, but you can see the beach from Oiso more directly. There are pine trees by the road just before entering Oiso inn town. Now you see that this is a default of Tokaido Highway. Around this pine trees, you would want to check out several things.  This part of Tokaido goes slightly downhill, and it’s called Kesho-zaka(Makeup slope), and there is an old well, Kesho-ido. The actual sign of Kesho-ido says “Kesho Well”. The well water was used by women, especially prostitutes in this inn town, for their makeup.  And this is the area where Hiroshige Utagawa drew another Ukiyoe, “Oiso: Tora’s Rain”.  https://www.artic.edu/artworks/25580/oiso-tora-s-rain-oiso-tora-ga-ame-from-the-series-fifty-three-stations-of-the-tokaido-road-tokaido-gojusan-tsugi-no-uchi-also-known-as-the-hoeido-tokaido  (Art Institute Chicago. Public d...

First of all, I apologize to my reader that I accidentally posted Hiratsuka inn town part. Order wise, Fujisawa should come first.  As we travel further west, there seem to be more old houses along Tokaido.  Right next to Edo-side of inn town guard, there is Yugyoji temple, established in 1325.  Fujisawa-juku koryukan is recently opened to introduce history of Fujisawa inn town to travelers, and also has a function of rest house.  There is a signpost for Enoshima, which has been a famous tourist site since ancient time, even up until now. From here, basically you can head down south to Enoshima and Shonan beach.  Fujisawa seems to have more old houses/warehouses, from late Edo to Meiji period. Some of old houses were built in the early 1900s but still preserve the atmosphere of what Fujisawa inn town used to be.  Kyu-Kikyouya house was a merchant house of tea and paper. Bloggers and online news say that sometimes Kikyouya opens to public.  This old war...

 As I mentioned previously, along Tokaido Highway, there were many sections that had pine trees on both sides, in order to guide travelers the right route.  On a long stretch between Fujisawa inn town and Hiratsuka inn town, on today’s National Route 1, we can still enjoy pine trees that Tokugawa shogunate planted. Some of them were planted much more recent to show how Tokaido used to be like.  This one is in Fujisawa city side.  That’s all for now. Let’s continue our journey.  

 First, I thought Hiratsuka will be a boring in town. I have to say that, I was wrong. Of course, comparing to places like Tsumago or Magome Nakasendo inn towns, Hiratsuka would be probably boring because there are very few old houses and buildings. At least on the main street side, there are virtually no old houses and buildings. Right before entering Hiratsuka inn town, near JR Hiratsuka station, take a right for north. There we will see a big Torii gate. This is Hiratsuka-Hachimangu shrine. Allegedly it was established in 380. Indeed, this is an ancient shrine.  Then we continue on old Tokaido. Soon we see arcade streets called Shonan Star Mall. This is like 1960-1980d style shopping mall with bunch of small shops.  Here comes the Edo-side guard/gate, Edogata-Mitsuke(江戸方見附).  And so far, there is no old houses that tell us how Hiratsuka inn town used to look like. There is a clue for the reason. I could probably say the same thing to other inn towns we have passed...

(Picture below: Hiroshige Utagawa, “ Totsuka; Moto Machi Betsudo”, published in 1834. The original print from The Metropolitan Library of Arts, New York City. Public domain. Accessed in 2/16/2025) Before entering Totsuka inn town, there are a few things we want to cover. First, Shinanosaka is the first steepest hill from Edo, and the last steep hill to overcome from Kyoto side.  After you go down on Shinanozaka for about 3.4 km, there is a sign on Google map that says “The warehouse of Kamakura Ham”.  Kamakura Ham was originally made by William Curtis from England in 1887, in Kamakura county of Kanagawa prefecture. Today, Kamakura county itself has been merged with several cities including Yokohama, Kamakura and Fujisawa.  I did more research about this warehouse. I cannot convince myself that this is the warehouse.  Then I saw the website of Yokohama Kokudo office, Kanto Regional Development Bureau, Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transportation and Tourism. accor...