廿日市宿(Hatsukaichi inn town): burned during a civil war

Hatsukaichi(廿日市) means “the market of the twentieth of the month”. Namely, there used to be a market in the twentieth of every month. 

Today, there are very few things that remind us of old good Hatsukaichi inn town. The inn town suffered from a devastating fire during Second Choshu Expedition in 1866. The fire was set by Choshu domain army(Today’s Yamaguchi prefecture), in order to prevent Tokugawa shogunate army from marching westward, or at least slow them down. 

We barely see what good old Hatsukaichi inn town used to be. 

When I cannot figure out where the inn town began, I usually pick up a starting point at random, by how roads are curving or narrowing down. 

Sometimes local guide maps available online has indications and hints. 

There are a couple of places on east side of this inn town that can be an indicator of the east side of inn town gate. From Google map and its street views, the road is narrower after this intersection than prior to the intersection. But I could be wrong. 

As you see, there are very few old houses that look like it’s been standing for 1-2 centuries 

I am not sure what this stone is for. It could just mean a piece of an old gate or wall, or it could mean something more. 

There are some old houses still here. But I cannot tell if these were built in early-to-mid 1900s or older. 

Taking a long left curve. On the right side, there is a hill( It’s hard to see on the screen shot but you will notice when you go on street map view more). 

On the right where you see trees, this is 廿日市招魂社(Hatsukaichi Shokonsha). The shrine itself was established in 1939 for the purpose of honoring deceased soldiers. Prior to that, there was a rich person’s house, where emperor Meiji stopped by in 1885. There is a monument about his visit. 

This is the sign of entrance to Shogakuin temple annex. The main temple is located behind Hatsukaichi Shokonsha shrine, over the hill. It was built in 1995 in order to have better access to temple visit for elderly people who cannot visit the main building. The original temple over the hill was established by Gyoki(668-749), and is known for a 1300-year-old camphor tree. 

The front view of Hatsukaichi Shokonsha shrine.

Shorenji temple. I could not find any primary online resources, but some of blogs indicate that it was established in late 16th century. There is a bell with a poem written by Kyoshi Takahama(1874-1959), one of the most famous poets in early-to-mid 1900s. 

Although I cannot tell when this house on the left was most likely built, this could be a remnant houses of old Hatsukaichi inn town. I would guess, this house is probably about 100 years old or slightly less, but don’t quote me:-) 

Hatsukaichi Tenmangu shrine, established in 1233, has been an iconic shrine in this inn town. A local town guide map says that in Edo time, cargo ships relied on lights from this shrine in order to get to the port of Hatsukaichi. Hatsukaichi port was one of major hub ports of Kitamaebune cargo ship route that connected Osaka and Hokkaido via today’s Okayama, Shimonoseki and the coastline of the Sea of Japan. 

The monument of Hatsukaichi honjin inn ruins. Today the city’s community center is standing here. 

At the southeast corner of this intersection, there is an information board of Machiya-house(machiya means town house: a typical house narrow in width but deeper from the Main Street) ruins from the inn town. Archaeological excavations indicated the structures of machiya houses burned during the Second Choshu Expedition, aka Geishu War. 

I’m pretty sure that the old house with the corporate sign of Bridgestone Tire, on the left of the street view, was built after the Second Choshu Expedition, or even a lot later. However, this kind of house still preserves an average size of houses back in the inn town time. 

A few more old houses. 

Another one on the right side. 

Jonenji temple. AI review says it was established in 1503, but according to its official website, the founder switched allegiance to Jodo Shinshu Pure Land Buddhism in 1504, without mentioning the actual year of establishment. 

The house on the left looks interesting. If you have time, go on the street view. The house looks old, and from the side views, it is clear that this house had several renovations including adding the second floor, expanding the house in westward etc.. I am still guessing that this house can be more than 100 years old. 

This part looks a bit like what Hatsukaichi inn town used to look like. 

The route goes southwestward, toward the river. 

I do see more to see on 2-4 blocks off the main route. But that would double this page. 

To get to the main part of Hatsukaichi inn town, Hiroshima Dentetsu Hatsukaichi station is only 3-4 minutes north. JR Hatsukaichi station is also not far at all. 

From here, San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido highway goes more toward inland and mountains, then back on the coastline, to Kuba inn town. 

I just found an interesting place before heading to Kuba. We are going just a bit off from San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido route. Please bear with me. 

So, the next stop is, via Miyajima Kaido route to Jigozen. Let’s find out what’s in there. 

References: 

Hatsukaichi Honjin ruins. Hatsukaichi Tourism Association Officual Website.(in Japanese:廿日市本陣跡　旅するはつかいち　(一社)はつかいち観光協会公式ウェブサイト) 

https://hatsu-navi.jp/historical-spots/hatsukaichihonjin/ (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/16/2026)

Hatsukaichi Tenmangu official website. (In Japanese: 安芸国　廿日市市　篠尾山鎮座　廿日市天満宮) https://www.hatsukaichitenmangu.or.jp/about (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/15/2026)

Saigoku Kaido crossing map. Greater Hiroshima area. Hiroshima City.(in Japanese: 西国街道横断マップ　広島広域都市圏　広島市) https://www.city.hiroshima.lg.jp/kouiki/2million/1027228/1036849/1030656.html (Accessed in 2/12/2026)

The official website of Jonenji temple, Hoshuzan, Hatsukaichi(In Japanese:廿日市　宝洲山　常念寺) https://sites.google.com/site/hatsukaichijonenji/%E3%83%88%E3%83%83%E3%83%97%E3%83%9A%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B8 (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/15/2026)

The official website of Shogakuin, Daikaku temple of Koyasan Shingon sect.(In Japanese: 高野山真言宗　篠尾山　大乗寺　正覚院) shougakuin.com/index.html (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/14/2026)

Walking around Hiroshima’s 8 wards: Saigoku Kaido. Hiroshima city. (The original title:ひろしま8区ぐるっと散策「みち」めぐり　西国街道　広島市) https://www.city.hiroshima.lg.jp/living/community/1021315/1026271/1026272/1018367.html (Accessed in 8/12/2025 In Japanese only)