岡山宿(Okayama inn town/castle town): finding hints of pre-WWII Okayama

 Okayama inn town/castle town is one of inn towns of wonder: there are good records of the castle town including historical maps. But as least as far as Google map street views are concerned, there are very few places that we can track down what San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido route used to look like. There are many remarkable things and sites related to Okayama castle, but alas, I need to visit and physically walk on this part of Saigoku Kaido trail. 

The route goes southeastward, as if it was avoiding Okayama castle. Then cross Asahi river to the castle town.   
Then enter arcade streets for a while until we hit a wide street called Momotaro avenue. The classic story of Peach Boy is a big deal in Okayama as this is the place of the origin of the story. 
If you google Momotaro story, you will soon hit a bunch of classic kids’ story of a boy together with his fellow animals who beats up bullies of goblins in an island. The actual story seems to come from Kibitsu-hiko no Mikoto, a son of the 7th emperor Korei, who three clan leaders to beat Ura, an ogre. 
This traditional building turned out to be very new. Koeido, a traditional Japanese sweets shop, rebuilt this new building to replace its old building. 
By the way, Koeido is famous for Kibidango sweets, known for Momotaro’s carry-on food. 
Okayama city has its tram that covers downtown and major tourist sites. There are plans for expansion in the very near future. 
Crossing Nakahashi and Kyobashi bridges over Asahi river.
Okayama Electric Railways Higashiyama line goes on Saigoku Kaido. 
Saigoku Kaido goes on Saidaijicho arcade avenue. 
I watched inside the arcade street on street views carefully, but I have not found anything to indicate such as honjin, wakihonjin, Kosatsuba information board and so on. This is my homework when I visit Okayama city. Now I have the reason to go there. 
WWII air raids destroyed most of Okayama city. Unfortunately it is what it is. I wish I could see more to indicate what pre-WWII San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido used to look like, on the trail. This is my lamentations: it’s easy to build something new. It will become more difficult if we don’t pass our history on to the next generations as time goes by. 
This small tower is a replica of Kabetsukido Bell Tower. This was a symbol of Okayama city. Built in 1666, the Bell Tower was renovated to 3-story tower in 1835. Destroyed during WWII, the half-destroyed bell is now restored and displayed at Okayama City Museum. 
The circle on the bottom right is where Kanetsukido used to be. 

Okayama City Museum has an extensive section of pre-WWII Okayama and San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido time. This is on my bucket list. 
Now we hit Momotaro Avenue. 
Turn to north here. 
Entering Korakuen street, coming from another symbol of Okayama, Korakuen Japanese garden. We are going away from Korakuen direction. 
The blue-colored street I marked is 津山往来(Tsuyama Oharu) aka 作陽往来(Sakuyo Oharu) which leads to Tsuyama city, central Okayama prefecture. 
Going west. 
This jizo statue is called Kabo Jizoson, which means Jizo statue to pray for fire prevention. I could not find good resources about it, but one of comments on Google map said that this was erected in 1980 or so. 
The trail goes further over JR San’yo line, under San’yo Shinkansen. There is another arcade street over the train lines. 
I will conclude Okayama inn town article here. 

JR Okayama terminal is definitely the must-stop, then you can walk or take Okayama Electric Railways tram to anywhere between Okayama Ekimae station and Chunagon stop to start the trail. 

The next stop is Yasaka unofficial inn town, before getting to Itakura inn town. 

References: 

Koeido no Ayumi(廣榮堂のあゆみ) Koeido Co.,Ltd. https://koeido.co.jp/story/kibidango/ (Accessed in 6/8/2025. In Japanese) 

Okayama. Wikipedia.com. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okayama (Accessed in 6/8/2025)

5/1926 Okayama City Album Uchisange elementary and junior high school/Sakaemachi Kanetsukido(The original title: 大正15年5月岡山市写真帖 内山下尋常高等小学校校庭・栄町鐘撞堂) Digital Okayama Encyclopedia. Okayama Prefectural Library. https://digioka.libnet.pref.okayama.jp/mmhp/kyodo/kento/T15/si/T15-shi-syasintyo-jpeg-20.htm (Accessed in 6/8/2025. In Japanese) 

The Story Behind the Tale of Momotaro. Japan Heritage Official Site. https://www.japan.travel/japan-heritage/popular/momotaro-okayama-kibi-kibitsuhiko-mikoto-kinojo (Accessed in 6/8/2925)




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

山陽道/西国街道(San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido overview)

Starting the Kaido 101: Tokaido/Nakasendo-Nihonbashi(日本橋)

Introducing old road network:KAIDO