地御前(Jigozen) - 宮島(Miyajima): parallel world

As mentioned in previous article, We are stepping a bit away from San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido highway. Since this is still relevant to San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido highway, I will touch this area but I‘m not deep diving. Instead, I am posting links so you guys can deep dive later. 

So, from Hatsukaichi inn town, there seems to have had two ways at least in southward: San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido, and Jigozen Sando(地御前参道: Sando means an approach to a sacred places). There was another highway called 津和野街道(Tsuwano Kaido highway) but I am not going to touch this in this article. 

When we talk about Jigozen, Jigozen cannot be separated from Itsukushima island. Itsukushima is a Workd Heritage site, where flocks of travelers visit in order to see its floating shrine, Itsukushima shrine. The entire island is also called Miyajima, which means the island of shrine. Today, Miyajima town belongs to Hatsukaichi city. We will tackle why these two shrines are related later. 

I saw this sign that points direction if “Hiroshimado”. Apparently, this was not here initially. It was relocated from where a nearby parking lot is, probably diagonally across the street. I could not find good information about Hiroshimado route online. However, the guide map of this area indicated that after Edo period was over, because San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido route went on mountain side and was not an easy route for travelers, the new government changed the route to this coastal course. This could have been Hiroshimado. 

Jigozen Sando, or the Approach to Jigozen shrine, was one of popular routes in this area, up to late 19th century. You will still see old houses. 

There is a detailed map of Jigozen area. I will post the link of the detail map on the reference section. 

Jigozen looks nicer than Hatsukaichi inn town. It is pity that Hatsukaichi was burned down during the Second Choshu Expedition. 

Kannondo, which worships Eleven-headed Bodhisattva of Compassion. The year of establishment is unknown. There was a record saying that Tanaka family if Mt.Maruko was taking care of this Bodhisttava in around late 1630s. A local legend says that there used to be a childbirth hut for women of Miyajima island. 

Saikoji temple was established in 1625. It is a temple of Jodo Shinshu Honganji school. Apparently the temple is known for large pine trees. 

Jigozen definitely preserves old houses more, like what it used to be. But it’s not as beautiful as Yakage, Kannabe, or Inbe. 

It is not “WOW!” but for a short walk, this is a nice area. 

At the corner of an elementary school, there is a monument of birth of Senko Kobayashi(1870-1911). He studied in the US and returned as one of pioneers of Western-style paint artists. 

Passing by Otoshi shrine, the local patron god of Jigozen. The year of establishment is unknown, and it was relocated to the present place in 1789. 

We are crossing a JR San’yo line railway crossing. 

This is the memorial of the first national road construction in this area, back in 1877. 

This is Jigozen shrine. In the early stage of Itsukushima shrine’s establishment, the entire island was considered as sacred. For centuries, no outsiders were allowed to land on except clerics of the shrine. Even later when people were allowed to live in Itsukushima island, pregnant women who were close to the term were sent to Jigozen until 100 days since they bore children. Up until World War II, there were many rules in Itsukushima island to make the island sacred. 

Jigozen was also one of sites of the battle of Itsukushima in 1555 when lord Motonari Mori defeated lord Harutaka Sue. When Motonari knew that Harutaka was going to betray him, Motonari gave him false info that Itsukushima island is the weak point of Mori clan. Surely enough, Harutaka decided to gather his army to attack the island. And Harutaka was tricked, caused disastrous defeat, and he ended up committing suicide in Itsukushima island. 

People used to look at the direction of Itsukushima shrine from here. 

In order to get to Jigozen, Hiroshima Electric Railways Jigozen station is the closest. 

So, where is Itsukushima shrine? 

On the map, it is exact south of Jigozen shrine. What is interesting is that, Jigozen shrine was not established on the closest shore, which is today’s Minajimaguchi. 

Today, people travel to Miyajima either from the port of Miyajimaguchi which is connected to JR and Hiroshima tram station, or from couple of more ports in Hiroshima city. 

Now let’s sneak a peak at Miyajima. 

Miyajima itself has a certified Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings(重要伝統的建造物群保存地区), aka Judenken(重伝建). There are a lot of pictures and videos about Miyajima Judenken area, so please go on YouTube to find out more in detail. 

Miyajima’s Judenken historical quarter ranges roughly between around the ferry terminal and Itsukushima jinja, “floating shrine”. This section is near the floating shrine. When the tide is high, the shrine looks like floating on the water. 

The floating shrine is not the only attraction in Miyajima. There is a ropeway to the peak of Mt.Misen, known as the Three Great Views of Japan(日本三景). Miyajima aquarium is one of few aquariums in Hiroshima prefecture. 

Where the ferry terminal is today, was the main battlefield of Motonari Mori vs Harutaka Sue.

As I explained earlier, Harutaka Sue suffered from disastrous defeat. Mori army surrounded Sue army, and Harutaka committed suicide. 

 

This part reminds me of Kyoto near Daigoji temple. 

For more details of Miyajima/Itsukushima, refer to the reference section. 

We are getting back to Saigoku Kaido/San’yodo route. 

The next stop is 玖波宿(Kuba inn town). Hiroshima prefecture part is getting close to the end. 

References: 

The Battle of Miyajima. Wikipedia.com. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Miyajima (Accessed in 3/18/2026)

The Fifth Pilgrimage site: Chishusan Kannondo.(Shingon sect Buddhism) Hiroshima New Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage. (In Japanese: 第五番　智周山　観音堂(真言宗)  広島新四国八十八ヶ所霊場) 88-henro.com/index.php/no005/ (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/25/2026)

History of Miyajima. Miyajima Tourist Association. https://www.miyajima.or.jp/english/history/miyajimahistory.html (Accessed in 3/18/2026)

Introduction of Jigozen. The City of Hatsukaichi. (In Japanese: 地御前の紹介　廿日市市  https://www.city.hatsukaichi.hiroshima.jp/site/jigozensc/12957.html (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/25/2026)

Jigozen Shrine. Hatsukaichi Tourism Association.(In Japanese: 地御前神社　旅するはつかいち　はつかいち観光協会公式ウェブサイト) https://hatsu-navi.jp/historical-spots/jigozenjinjya/ (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/24/2026)

Motonari Mouri’s battle of Itsukushima. The authentic traditional Ryokan in Miyajima Island IWASO. (In Japanese: 毛利元就の厳島合戦　みやじまの宿　岩惣) https://www.iwaso.com/17138661111028 (In Japanese. Accessed in 2/25/2026)

Saigoku Kaido crossing map. Greater Hiroshima area. Hiroshima City.(in Japanese: 西国街道横断マップ　広島広域都市圏　広島市) https://www.city.hiroshima.lg.jp/kouiki/2million/1027228/1036849/1030656.html (Accessed in 3/17/2026)

A tour of four shrine and temples associated with Itsukushima Shrine. Hatsukaichi Trip produced by RURUBU. Hatsukaichi City. (In Japanese: 厳島神社ゆかりの4社寺めぐり　はつかいちトリップ produced by るるぶ　廿日市市) https://www.city.hatsukaichi.hiroshima.jp/jtbp/trip01/ (In Japanese only. Accessed in 2/25/2026)