小方(Ogata): an unofficial inn town south of Kuba

小方(Ogata) unofficial inn town is about 20 minutes walk south of JR Kuba station. 
According to a couple of guide maps, there is very little information. 
I watched one of YouTube channels and read guide maps. And it looks like series of old houses start here. So I am guessing this is the beginning of Ogata unofficial inn town. 
Basically going southwestward. 
Turning right here. 
Then turn left. 
I am not sure if this structure of the road was built on purpose or not. Normally, if this was an official inn town, I would say yes. 
In Ogata, there are very few signs that explain about San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido. 
Off from the main route, there is Sainenji temple, built in 1615. This temple became one of hot spots of 1866 Second Choshu Expedition(also called Choshu War). Choshu army stationed here as their base camp, and a Tokugawa’s battleship fired a canon at this temple. You will still see the scar from the canon ball. 
Kamei castle ruins is only 2-3 blocks west of the route, over the hill. One of pictures I saw online was a night view of Otake city from the castle ruins. It looks bea
So far, seriously, I have not seen any signs about San’yodo/Saigoku Kaido. 
A little over a block westward, there is Ritsuanji temple. Local historians assume that this was esrablished in around 1375-1378.
On the left side, there is Wada family residence Nagaya gate(longhouse gate). It was burned during 1866 war. The current one was built in 1867. Building nagaya gate required permission from a local lord. 
The blue circle is a monument of “Kegoromo”. It was erected by local poets who honored Matsu Basho’s 150-year memorial in 1843. 
On this monument, there is a Basho’s poem: 
裘に包みてぬくし鴨の足
(Kegoromo ni kurumite nukushi
Kamo no ashi)
Wrapped in a fur coat, 
The duck's feet are warm
(I’m not warm)

One of notable things to see in this area is Kamei castle ruins, built by lord Masanori Fukushima(1561-1624). He completed the construction in 1608, but Ieyasu Tokugawa ordered him to destroy the castle in 1611, because Ieyasu was suspicious about Masanori’s loyalty. Masanori served Hideyoshi Toyotomi, Ieysdu’s rival, and after Hideyoshi’s death, Masanori honored and often became a moderator between Tokugawa and Toyotomi clans. 



References: 

Tourist guidebooks and posters. Otake City.(In Japanese only:観光ガイドブック・ポスター 大竹市) https://www.city.otake.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/somu/sangyoshinko/gyomu/1454223699721.html (Accessedxin 3/30/2026)

Leaflet of Kamei castle ruins and Saigoku Kaido highway Otakeji exploration(In Japanese only: 亀居城跡と西国街道大竹路探訪リーフレット 大竹市) https://www.city.otake.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/kyoikuiinkai/shogai/rekishibunkazai/1461654042060.html (Accessed in 3/22/2026)

Otake City Historical Association official website.(In Japanese only: 大竹市歴史研究会) https://otake-history.halfmoon.jp/about/%E5%A4%A7%E7%AB%B9%E5%B8%82%E6%AD%B4%E5%8F%B2%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E4%BC%9A/ (Accessed in 3/23/2026)

Saigoku Kaido crossing map. Greater Hiroshima area. Hiroshima City.(in Japanese: 西国街道横断マップ 広島広域都市圏 広島市) https://www.city.hiroshima.lg.jp/kouiki/2million/1027228/1036849/1030656.html (Accessed in 2/12/2026)

The Sainenji official homepage(Un Japanese only:浄土宗 智海山 辮相院 西念寺) https://chikaizansainenji.com/ (Accessed in 3/30/2026)


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